Pam's Journal For March 2005
After they left Peter and I busied ourselves with chores like the website and reading the paper. We then discovered friend Peter’s glasses, still here. As we did not have a phone number to contact them we had to wait for their call, which came later. We have now arranged to meet at Hahndorf on Thursday. Hence the reference to au revoir.
With the business of the day out of the way, only one thing left to do. Yep, Anchorage here we come. We had our statutory one glass of red and were actually leaving - yes, I know that's hard to believe - when we got talking to a couple of ‘Pommies’. They were here on holiday and, as we got along very well with them, we had a couple more drinks. But only, I hasten to add, because it is important that Australians appear sociable to tourists so that they will return with their friends. Paul and Dawn were very nice people and it is shame that they are only in Victor Harbor for a short time. Anyway, maybe we will catch up with them tomorrow, who knows?
It was certainly up and out this morning. I even set the
alarm last night and I cannot remember the last time I set an alarm! Nonetheless
we were showered, breakfasted and standing to attention at the main entrance
to the caravan park at 7.25 a.m. Those that know us will agree - a ‘mean
feat’.
Our transport was not a coach, as we expected, but a six seater car as
we were the only two going from Victor Harbor. After a pleasant ride over
to Cape Jervis we were deposited at the SeaLink ferry office.
We boarded quite quickly and found seats at the ‘pointy end’.
Peter, ever the gentleman, went in search of coffee which was surprisingly
good. Or was it that we were so shell shocked from our early start that
anything would have tasted good? No, I think it really was good. Within
a few minutes of boarding I had 'sussed' out where the life jackets and
life boats were. Let me rephrase that; I had 'sussed' out where MINE were,
never mind anyone else! Women and children first? I don’t think
so! This little woman can move fast when she wants to.
The crossing was smooth and in no time at all we had disembarked (see,
I even know the jargon) at Penneshaw, and found our coach waiting for
us along with thirty other people. We then set off, not on a tour as we
expected, but on a round trip of hotels, collecting other passengers.
We were already getting a bit fed up with this, wondering when the ‘real’
tour would start, when a lady asked the driver to stop at a chemist so
she could collect a script (prescription). I kid you not! Peter requested
- under his breath - that perhaps we could then stop at a hardware shop
for him. Anyway, I guess the script must have been urgent.
However,
now we started the tour with a vengeance. All our thoughts of how much
this was costing us flew out of the window when we made the first stop.
The beauty spot was called Stokes Bay and to get there we had to travel
some distance down unsealed roads (lucky we didn't bring Billy). It was
a really lovely spot made more interesting because we had to walk from
one bay to another via a passage way through an outcrop of rocks. Really
neat. On one side was a pebble beach, on the other a sandy beach –
impressive. The picture shows me pretending to emerge onto the sandy beach.
An unconvincing re-enactment, just like on the telly.
It was now lunch time and we trundled off to Stokes Farm for a salad
lunch – now that was not impressive. We got chatting to
an American couple, Tom and Kate, who were really nice. In fact, we met
a lot of nice people on the tour including a couple from Warrington, (Pam
and Arthur) and a lady from Bolton. Pommesville readers will know these
places. With lunch out of the way, our next stop was a wildlife park.
Not really our cup of tea as we have visited Cohuna (which is on our doorstep)
many times. We don’t like to see the birds in small cages either,
especially eagles.
The 'up' side of a coach tour is you see and learn so much more from the
experts. The 'down' side is “Be back at the coach by one o'clock”,
hurry here, hurry there. And, of course, you always have one. Ours was
an American lady who sat right behind us and constantly talked very loudly
on her mobile phone.
Seal Bay was next on the itinerary. When we arrived we were warned by
a guide, who was very fierce and had a loud voice, that if we didn't do
as she said she would bring us all off the beach and that would be the
end of the tour. Sadam Hussein would have been proud to have her for a
daughter. No one was game enough to step out of line! To be fair to her,
her main objective was to protect the seals but she was also concerned
for our safety. We did enjoy the tour and saw the seals very close up.
By this time the whole coach party was beginning to wilt and we still
had another stop before heading off to our various hotels for the night.
Our final call was at a honey farm which was very interesting. I mean,
we all know how honey is made, but I never thought about the process of
how the honey gets from the hives into jars! I know now though, and I
also know about bees wax. After the tour we went into the shop for honey
tasting . . . very nice! We also purchased a honey ice cream which we
thoroughly enjoyed.
So, a long and very enjoyable day was over and it was off to our hotel.
We were very pleasantly surprised with ours, as from the outside we had
thought “Oh, no”. The owners of the Wanderers Inn were lovely
- very friendly - and we received a warm welcome. After a short rest in
our room we arrived in the dining room for dinner. After a very nice meal,
and wine of course, we headed off to bed absolutely pooped.
The owners were thinking of giving up their business and travelling around
Australia in a caravan, so they were very interested in our experience,
short though it may be.
• A Eucalyptus Oil Distillery,
• Kelly Hill Caves,
• Beckwiths Farm (for lunch - not much better than yesterday),
• Flinders Chase National Park,
• Remarkable Rocks,
• Cape Du Couedic Lighthouse,
• Admirals Arch,
• Rocky River,
• A Sheep Dairy.
Phew!!!
We really liked the sheep’s cheese and bought some. The caves were fascinating until the guide turned off the lights so we could imagine what it was like for the first explorers who discovered the caves. Being in the pitch dark underground is NOT my idea of fun! We saw more seals at Admirals Arch, this time New Zealand Fur Seals. All too soon the day was over and we had to head back to Penneshaw to catch the ferry home. Once again we had a very smooth crossing and chatted away the time with our new-found friends (and a glass of red). Then it was time to say goodbye and board the minibus to take us back to Victor Harbor.
We were tired, boy we were tired, so it was a ‘take
it easy’ morning; Peter updated the web page and I read the paper.
Then I discovered I should have had a blood test three days ago so we
walked into Victor Harbor. I did the necessary without any problems then,
as we were so close to the Anchorage, we popped in for a glass. We met
a very nice couple, Simon and Pauline, got chatting and drinking and before
we knew it it was nine o clock. We all, by that time, needed something
to eat and the Anchorage had stopped serving meals so we went off in search
of food. The only place we found open was a take-away pizza place, not
my ideal food, but when you are hungry practically anything will do. So
there we were at 10.30 p.m. on a balmy night, in the middle of Victor
Harbor, sitting on a bench with our new friends eating take-away pizza.
And you know what? We had a really delightful time and didn’t get
home until midnight.
We walked over the Hindmarsh Bridge four times (we had left our lunch in the car) and each time failed to see any secret women’s business. After we ate lunch we had a drive round Hindmarsh Island and were not overly impressed. It was then back to the festival and the James Morrison concert. I was bemused by Peter’s keenness to see James Morrison in concert as it is not really our kind of music. Could it be that I happened to mention that tickets for James Morrison concerts usually start at around $90? We had paid just $25 for both of us to enter the festival and attend the concert. Peter felt duty bound to attend in order to score a bargain. As the afternoon had now turned quite chilly we decided to call it a day. JM was still going but we didn’t miss a thing as we could hear him all the way back to the car and we also watched the final boat parade of the day from the top of the bridge. We finished off the day by having a meal at our favourite hotel, the Anchorage. I supposed we must qualify as honorary ‘locals’ there now.
Last night we said goodbye to our new friends at the Anchorage and commiserated with them over a very rude and loud customer that did not need to talk to the bar staff (our new friends) so nastily.
We arrived in Robe about 2.30pm without any major dramas. Apart form the rain and cold it wasn’t a bad trip. Once set up, as is our custom, we checked out the town and surroundings. Robe looks like it could be very nice with some sunshine. Hopefully tomorrow the weather will be better. We did, however, find ourselves in a local pub which reminded both of us of the pubs in North Wales. No doubt we will return.
We then walked over to the Caledonian Hotel for our usual and also a history lesson. Let me explain. Yesterday when we walked into the Caledonian, Peter straight away said to the barmaid, “This place must be haunted”. Now, Peter does not believe in ghosts so where did that come from?! Anyway, the barmaid confirmed that it is! We gleaned as much information as we could about this ghost. She is possibly the very late Mrs McQueen. We liked the placed so much we decided to have dinner there on Saturday.
On the way home we called in at the Caledonian for the next installment of the ghost busters. We spoke to the landlord who told us the ghost’s presence is felt whenever there are changes and very often it is ‘table 8’ where she can be found. We had already booked a table in one of the booths – no point in explaining why, you would have to see the hotel to understand. It must be one of the oldest Inns we have seen so far. Anyway, where was I? Oh yes, we had already booked a booth, so I went and checked out table 8. Yes, that would be okay. I told Peter to have a look, if he was happy we would change our booking.
I know, I know - all this fuss just to eat out! Peter came back and definitely wanted to sit at table 8. He said all the hairs on the back of his neck stood up and he felt a tingling down his spine. I thought he was joking but looking at this face I realised he was serious. You never know, next he will be talking to God!!
After that it is back to the strict diet for a few days.
We left Robe reasonably early knowing we had to be at
the caravan repairer in Mount Gambier by 1.00 pm. As we had plenty of
time we stopped off at a museum in Millicent which I thought was excellent.
Peter wasn't so keen, so he finished looking around in a short while.
We always go in different directions at these places as our interests
vary. Consequently Peter couldn’t find me when he had finished and
wanted to get going. On the way back to the car I realised I had lost
my glasses - time wasted looking for them - but luckily I found them.
Someone’s stress level was now rising.
We arrived at Mount Gambier in good time and pulled in to the caravan
place before we realised that their entrance was not made for a 21’
caravan. Stress levels up a few notches. We were manoeuvring the best
we could - nobody came to help - when we brushed another caravan. The
other ’van was okay but our cover for the hot water system looks
a little the worse for wear. The place was a joke, (stress levels rising
even more) but hopefully the chap has fixed the awning. Leaving, yours
truly reversed our caravan out on to the main road. No problem at all,
two mobile phones and Peter stopping all the traffic and giving instructions.
What a team!! We then made for the caravan park to set up camp.
Mount Gambier seems to be a nice place. We had a drive around the Blue
Lake and some other lakes then we explored the town. On the way back we
spotted an RSL*. We had been told that meals and drinks are very reasonable
in these places so we went in to investigate. We were baled up by one
of the locals who insisted in telling us all the places we should visit.
Very kind, but his whole approach was from a fisherman’s perspective;
fishermen we are not!
*R.S.L. - Returned Servicemen's League. An Australia-wide veteran's organisation with clubs in most population centres. They make enough money from multitudes of well-patronised ‘pokies’ (poker-based slot machines) to be able to discount drinks and meals.
When we left the Lady Nelson Discovery Centre I wanted to go to Umpherston Sinkhole which is now a garden. Peter agreed although he had that ‘not another garden’ look on his face. However, when we got there he was pleasantly surprised. It really was spectacular, the ‘sinkhole’ had appeared after the roof of a cave collapsed. Now you understand why I said it was scary having these caves under the city. If the roof of a cave can collapse then, why not now? It was really warm at the bottom of the ‘sinkhole’. Sheltered I guess. After another drive around the blue lake we returned home.
Boring stuff next, grocery shopping, ho-hum!
After dinner we went back to the beauty spots of Mount Gambier as they are lit up at night and you get a different perspective. Apart from The Lady Nelson the other places were not lit properly (ie lights not working) and quite frankly lacked imagination, they could have done so much more.
From there we went to look at Mount Schank, another volcanic crater. We walked to the top. I do not know how many steps there were but it felt like millions. We got to the top and then the idea was to walk around the crater. I looked at the path, which seemed to disappear in parts, and I looked at the drop either side and decided enough was enough. It was also blowing a gale on the top of there. Anyway I have now walked to the top of a volcano! Been there, done that. Cross it off the list.
We had lunch whilst looking at a lovely view of another crater next to Mount Schank. We then decided to go to Port MacDonnell. Nice enough place but another fishing town, and boy did it stink! Our next stop was Adam Lindsay Gordon’s cottage. The locals seem to take great pride in the fact he lived here for a short while. The cottage looked nice and the garden was lovely, but as the house was closed we didn’t get to look inside. We made our way home via a hotel, the inside of which I really wanted to see. As you do. It looked like one of these really old buildings that have very attractive rooms. Well the wine was okay but the inside was a disappointment.
Oh, yes we decided to shampoo the carpets and lino. Well, actually Peter decided to have a shower in the caravan with the plug in its little hole. Hence the water overflowed and soaked everywhere. It was then a mad scramble to remove the carpets mop up the excess water before it seeped into the cupboards under the beds. Peter was a little disconcerted that I had the door wide open throwing carpet, etc., outside whilst he was standing there in his birthday suit. He didn’t get any offers!!! Anyway, no damage done, the carpets are taking a while to dry out but by tomorrow they should be dry enough to put down again.
The caravan park is full and we have lots of children racing about on bikes and things. It is bedlam in the shower block so I guess we will be showering in the ’van until Easter is over. Without the plug in its hole!!!!
After lunch we went to do the shopping and then went home for a rest before our big night out - we were going to the speedway. Previously we had enjoyed watching the speedway in Esperance and so expected more of the same. It wasn’t. People weren’t as friendly or welcoming, I suppose because it was much bigger. The biggest shock was the entry fee. $25 each!!! but we got a pensioner discount of $5 each. The action on the circuit was exhilarating and you would be lying if you said you weren’t waiting for a ‘bit of a crash’. We were not disappointed! There were a lot of crashes but all the drivers walked away unhurt, thank goodness. The events went on and on because every time something unexpected happened on the track (i.e. a car stalled or crashed) and two laps hadn’t been completed the race had to start again. By 10.00pm we were frozen; two hours later we were complete ice blocks. When we finally got home we thawed out and decided that we are now so over speedway!
After another look at the map, and Peter driving more slowly this time, we took off to check out our ‘missed’ beauty spots. Piccaninnie Ponds, another sink hole, was first on the tourist list. We arrived looked, admired and left for the next stop which was Piccaninnie Beach where we could “observe springs erupting on the beach”. We walked for about 20 minutes from the carpark on a track with great expectations of seeing this phenomenon. We arrived at the end of the track to find running water, which was the outlet from the ponds running into the ocean. It was clear water, important to mention that. Well, we looked, admired and decided it must be of some importance because somebody had gone to a lot of trouble to make the track, some of it being very fine boardwalk. We just couldn’t see the importance! We made our way back to the car park and went a different way over sand dunes on to the beach. Did we see these damn springs? No, we did not! We gave up and decided to press on further to Hell Hole.
Oh, no! Unsealed roads! But we soldiered on and eventually came to Hell Hole which is another sink hole. From the car park we had a short walk on a track through some bush. As we approached we heard shouting and a car engine and wondered what was happening. At this point we couldn’t see anyone, just hear all this shouting. When we arrived at the ‘sink hole’ we were most intrigued to see all this winch equipment set up, using two cars and the lookout where divers enter the sink hole for enjoyment. Yep, I said enjoyment. After asking a few questions we were told that four divers were in the sink hole and were too tired and cold to climb back up. We watched in awe as this skilful procedure was carried out. We were on edge - will they get them out in time, or will it be a life and death situation? At one point we were asked to leave the landing of the lookout because if the pulley snapped it would take our heads off. I wasn’t sure what would actually take our heads off but we didn’t hang about to find out. We watched from the side lines as instructions were relayed from one person to another then to the driver of the car. As I said, we were on edge waiting for these poor divers to emerge from the cold dark water. I suddenly realise Peter had moved from my side, where was he? Like a true trooper he was helping. Well, actually under the pretence of helping he had got nearer to the action so he could take good photos. We all sighed with relief when the divers and equipment were safely back on dry land. All that effort and what did they see in the sink hole? Rubbish, street signs, a small sunken boat and various drinking vessels, i.e. beer cans. “But it was very clear” one diver told us. Yep, as I said previously, they do this for enjoyment.
Once our adrenaline had returned to normal we headed off in search of Caroline’s sink hole. Whoever put these brochures together should do the trip themselves and then they would find how inadequate their instructions are. Anyway we gave up on Caroline’s sink hole and started homewards. After a quick trip around the Blue Lake to another lookout we had not been to before, a look at Leg of Mutton and Valley Lakes we went home to a nice glass of red.
Eventually I returned home to make the breakfast at 10.00am. Quite a story, eh! How much I can chat and to anyone and everyone as well. But, it has filled today’s space as we are not doing too much today. In the afternoon we did a whistle stop tour of two or three places we had missed. ‘Little Blue Lake’, another view of Valley Lake and Centenary Tower, which I am told, has views spectacular views. Peter walked the hill alone and I looked after the car. I was tired.
Back on the road for a couple of hours when we found ourselves in a small town called Padthway. It was decided that here was as good as any place to ‘camp’ for the night. We then discovered we had very different ideas of where one ‘parks up’ for the night. Peter seemed to think you can park anywhere. I felt happier if we were in a discreet location so we did not draw attention to ourselves. We finally decided on the wide verge of a back road behind a vineyard - nor knowing that it was the vineyard’s main access road and there was an onion store down there too. So we settled down for the evening . . . then all the workers and their equipment droned past on their way home. After a while it went quiet except for the odd road train speeding down the highway, just at the other side of the vineyard . It was also a hot night.
Our next port of call was Murray Bridge where we spent some time by the river, a very nice spot. We had a look around the town and decided it was still too early to camp for the night. We pressed on to Mount Barker where we found a very nice car park by a very nice park. It was a much better night and the hordes of people that used the park for exercise and walking their dogs didn’t pay much attention to us.
